Discovering Torta di Mele: A Delightful Tuscan Apple Cake from Mary Ann Esposito’s Ciao Italia

Embarking on a culinary journey often leads to unexpected and delightful discoveries. A few weeks ago, my quest for authentic Italian flavors introduced me to the remarkable cookbook author, Mary Ann Esposito. For those unfamiliar, Mary Ann is a true icon in the world of Italian cooking, boasting an impressive career that includes seven published cookbooks, two decades dedicated to writing about the rich culinary heritage of Italy, and a remarkable 14 seasons hosting the beloved PBS show, “Ciao Italia.” Despite her extensive contributions to Italian-American cuisine, her books were a new revelation to me, and I’ve since found immense joy in the prospect of collecting them all.

To begin my exploration of her work, I acquired Ciao Italia in Tuscany: Traditional Recipes from One of Italy’s Most Famous Regions. This particular book quickly became the source of an exquisite recipe known as Torta di Mele, or Tuscan Apple Cake – a dish that beautifully embodies the rustic elegance of Tuscan baking. My first attempt at this cake was nothing short of a success, inspiring me to share this wonderful recipe and the story behind it with you.

Exploring the Flavors of “Ciao Italia in Tuscany”

“Ciao Italia in Tuscany” is far more than just a cookbook; it’s an immersive culinary travelogue. It’s an excellent resource, particularly for those who have never had the pleasure of visiting Tuscany, or for avid travelers longing to relive their cherished memories of this breathtaking Italian region. Within its pages, Mary Ann Esposito embarks on a personal journey, spending several days traversing the picturesque Tuscan landscape, visiting authentic restaurants, local farms, and renowned wineries. Her mission is to cook alongside her hosts, delving deep into the heart of Tuscan kitchens.

The central theme that resonates throughout this book, and indeed throughout much of Tuscan culinary philosophy, is “cucina povera.” This term, translating to “poor kitchen” or “peasant cooking,” refers to a culinary tradition built on simplicity, resourcefulness, and the celebration of fresh, seasonal ingredients. It’s about creating incredibly flavorful and satisfying dishes from humble origins, often using what’s readily available and wasting nothing. Mary Ann beautifully captures the essence of this philosophy, showcasing how simple ingredients can be transformed into extraordinary meals.

The recipes in “Ciao Italia in Tuscany” are a testament to this tradition, featuring timeless classics such as Chicken Under Bricks (Pollo al Mattone), Potatoes with Olive Oil and Rosemary (Patate al Rosmarino), and hearty Tuscan Beef Stew (Peposo alla Fornacina). The book also includes a variety of rustic breads, pizzas, and pestos, alongside intriguing pasta specialty dishes that remain relatively unknown in the United States. Among these delightful, lesser-known gems, Torta di Mele stands out. Falling firmly into the dessert category, its unique blend of textures and flavors made it an irresistible choice for my own kitchen adventures, destined for the pages of Cookie Madness.

Unveiling Torta di Mele: A Tuscan Apple Cake Like No Other

Torta di Mele, the Tuscan Apple Cake, is a truly fascinating dessert that expertly bridges the gap between a traditional cake and an apple pie. While undoubtedly a cake, its generous inclusion of apples gives it a depth and character often associated with fruit tarts or pies. What makes this apple cake so compelling is the unique texture: slices of tender apple are beautifully suspended within a smooth, moist, and subtly tangy cake batter. Unlike denser, more bread-like apple cakes, Torta di Mele boasts a lighter, yet satisfyingly firm crumb that truly lets the apples shine.

Visually, the finished cake might evoke thoughts of a rustic bread pudding, particularly with its golden-brown top and visible apple pieces. However, its texture is distinctly firmer and holds its shape beautifully when sliced, bearing no resemblance to the softness of bread. It’s a sophisticated simplicity that speaks volumes about Tuscan baking. The delicate balance of sweet and tangy notes, combined with the soft bite of baked apples, creates an experience that is both comforting and elegantly refined. This isn’t just another apple dessert; it’s a celebration of apples and cake in harmonious unity.

This particular Torta di Mele recipe, as presented by Mary Ann Esposito, is based on a treasured original from a renowned Tuscan chef. While honoring its authentic roots, I made a few subtle adjustments to perfectly align it with my personal taste preferences. I opted for a slightly reduced amount of vanilla, believing that a full tablespoon might overpower the delicate apple and lemon notes. Instead, I introduced a hint of cinnamon, which adds a warm, inviting spice that complements the apples beautifully, especially for an autumn-inspired treat. Furthermore, I decided to skip the traditional jelly glaze often brushed over the top, instead preferring a generous dollop of freshly whipped cream upon serving. I find that the creamy richness of whipped cream enhances the cake’s flavors without adding excessive sweetness, creating a truly irresistible combination.

This apple cake is incredibly versatile. It’s the perfect dessert to bake on a cool autumn day when your kitchen is overflowing with fresh apples and you have a few pantry staples on hand. It serves as an excellent finale to a meal, a delightful accompaniment to an afternoon coffee, or even a sophisticated brunch item. Its unique texture and balanced flavors are sure to impress any guest.

Torta di Mele: The Recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• ¼ cup sour cream, full-fat for best results
• 1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest (from about 1 large lemon)
• ¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional, but highly recommended for warmth)
• 4 large apples (a mix of varieties like Delicious for sweetness and Granny Smith for tartness works wonderfully)
• 2 tablespoons warm apple jelly or jam (optional, for glazing)

Directions for a Perfect Tuscan Apple Cake

Baking this Torta di Mele is a straightforward and rewarding process, even for novice bakers. Follow these steps carefully to ensure a truly authentic and delicious outcome:

1. Prepare Your Baking Pan: Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Line an 8-inch square metal baking pan with aluminum foil, ensuring the foil extends over the edges to create “handles” for easy removal. This step is crucial for effortlessly lifting the cake from the pan once baked. Generously butter and flour the foil-lined pan, or use a high-quality baking spray with flour to prevent sticking. A well-prepared pan ensures a clean release and a beautiful presentation.
2. Whisk Eggs and Sugar to Perfection: In a large mixing bowl, combine the 4 room-temperature eggs and ½ cup of granulated sugar. Using an electric mixer, beat the mixture on medium-high speed for 5-7 minutes, or until it becomes noticeably light, pale yellow, and incredibly fluffy. The volume should significantly increase, and the mixture should fall in thick ribbons when you lift the beaters. This aeration process is vital for the cake’s light and airy texture.
3. Incorporate Wet Ingredients: Reduce the mixer speed to low. Gradually beat in the 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract and ¼ cup of sour cream until just combined. Be careful not to overmix at this stage. Then, gently stir in the 1 tablespoon of grated lemon zest with a spatula. The lemon zest adds a bright, tangy note that beautifully complements the apples.
4. Combine Dry Ingredients: In a separate medium bowl, or onto a piece of parchment paper or foil, sift together the ¾ cup of unbleached flour, ¾ teaspoon of baking powder, ⅛ teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of ground cinnamon (if using). Sifting helps to remove any lumps and ensures an even distribution of the leavening agents and spices, contributing to a smooth cake crumb.
5. Gently Fold in Dry Ingredients: Gradually add the sifted dry ingredient mixture to the wet egg mixture, folding gently with a spatula until just combined. Be careful not to overmix; overmixing can develop the gluten in the flour, leading to a tough cake. The batter might still have a few small lumps, which is perfectly fine.
6. Prepare and Add Apples: Peel, core, and thinly slice your 4 large apples. Aim for slices that are about ⅛ to ¼ inch thick, ensuring they cook evenly and integrate well into the cake. Gently fold the sliced apples into the batter until they are evenly distributed. The batter will be quite thick, and the apples will be abundant, which is exactly what you want for a true Torta di Mele.
7. Bake the Cake: Pour the apple-infused batter into your prepared 8-inch square pan, spreading it evenly with your spatula. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake for 35-40 minutes. To check for doneness, insert a wooden skewer or toothpick into the center of the cake; it should come out clean or with just a few moist crumbs attached. The top should be golden brown and the edges lightly pulled away from the sides of the pan.
8. Cool and Serve: Once baked, remove the cake from the oven and place it on a wire rack to cool. If you choose to use the optional jelly glaze, gently warm the apple jelly or jam and brush it evenly over the top of the warm cake. Allow the cake to cool to warm, or even to room temperature (I prefer it at room temperature for optimal flavor development). Once cooled sufficiently, use the foil handles to carefully lift the cake from the pan. Peel away the foil and transfer the cake to a beautiful serving plate or cutting board.
9. Enjoy Your Tuscan Delight: To serve, cut the Torta di Mele into squares. While I typically serve it at room temperature, it is equally delightful when served slightly warm, perhaps with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream or, as I prefer, a generous dollop of freshly whipped cream. For a unique twist, try it slightly chilled on a hot day. This versatile Tuscan apple cake promises to be a comforting and memorable dessert, perfect for sharing with family and friends.

Whether you’re a seasoned baker or just beginning your culinary explorations, this Torta di Mele offers a wonderful introduction to the simple, yet profound, flavors of Tuscan cuisine. Enjoy the process of baking and the joy of sharing this exquisite Italian apple cake!