Zabar’s Inspired Black and White Cookies: A Taste of New York City at Home
A few weeks ago, my husband, Fuzz, and I embarked on a delightful, albeit brief, two-night getaway to the bustling heart of New York City. Unlike our usual haunts Downtown or the vibrant energy around Grand Central, this particular trip saw us settling into the charming Upper West Side. It proved to be an absolutely perfect choice, placing us at the epicenter of classic New York experiences. We were mere steps from the awe-inspiring Museum of Natural History, with the serene expanse of Central Park practically on our doorstep, and just a short, pleasant stroll from the legendary Zabar’s. For those unfamiliar, Zabar’s isn’t just a grocery store; it’s a quintessential New York institution, a famous deli and culinary landmark renowned for a myriad of gourmet delights, not least among them their iconic Black and White Cookies.
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My anticipation for finally experiencing Zabar’s was palpable, a culinary pilgrimage I had long awaited. However, the reality of its narrow, bustling aisles, overflowing with customers and exquisite goods, proved to be a bit overwhelming. I found myself gently bumping into people as I navigated through the labyrinthine displays of cheeses, baked goods, and specialty items. Seeking a momentary reprieve from the delightful chaos, I ascended to the second floor, a less crowded haven dedicated to kitchenware. It was an unexpected discovery, a treasure trove I can only describe as the ultimate fusion of Sur la Table’s elegance, Ace Hardware’s practical utility, and the whimsical allure of Michael’s cake decorating section. Here, amidst an array of baking gadgets I never knew existed, I regained my composure, immersing myself in the quiet joy of culinary tools. Refreshed, I returned downstairs, bypassed the overwhelming deli counter, made a strategic stop at the coffee section to procure some of Zabar’s signature blend, and surprisingly, exited the store without a single Black & White Cookie in hand. A truly missed opportunity, I realized later, but one that sparked an even greater ambition.
The Iconic Black and White Cookie: A New York Staple
The Black and White Cookie holds a special place in the hearts of New Yorkers and dessert enthusiasts worldwide. More cake than cookie, its distinctive soft, cakey base topped with a perfect half-and-half frosting of vanilla and chocolate is instantly recognizable. Originating in New York bakeries, these beloved treats are often found in delis, diners, and specialty food shops across the city. Their allure lies not only in their delicious taste but also in their nostalgic charm, evoking images of classic New York City life. The contrast of the rich, dark chocolate and the sweet, bright vanilla icing isn’t just a visual delight; it’s a flavor harmony that makes each bite a unique experience. While often debated, many sources suggest that these “half-moon” cookies, or “Amerikaners” as they are known in Germany, have a fascinating European heritage, particularly in German bakeries, which would eventually make their way to the bustling bakeries of early 20th-century New York. This unique history only adds to their enduring appeal.
Crafting Zabar’s Black and White Cookie Copycat at Home
My slight regret about not purchasing a Black & White at Zabar’s fueled a new mission: to recreate that quintessential New York taste in my own kitchen. While nothing quite compares to the atmosphere of Zabar’s itself, I set out to develop a recipe that captures the essence of their famous cookies. This particular recipe yields cookies that are a little denser and richer than some lighter, more cake-like versions I’ve tried, leaning into a slightly crumblier texture, which many find incredibly satisfying. It also has the advantage of making a generous batch, perfect for sharing (or not!). The cookies consistently bake into a lovely, classic round shape, providing the ideal canvas for the signature dual icing.
In adapting and retooling the recipe, I focused on simplifying the process without compromising flavor. A key modification was developing it as an all-in-one-bowl method, eliminating the need to whisk dry ingredients separately. This not only saves time but also reduces cleanup, making the baking process more enjoyable. When it came to flavor, I made a conscious choice to move away from lemon extract, which Fuzz, my discerning taste-tester, sometimes finds overpowering. Instead, I opted for a combination of vanilla, butter, and nut extract, which imparts a beautifully complex and rich aroma that perfectly complements the cake base. The icing, a crucial component of any Black & White, remained my tried-and-true, old-standby recipe, known for its smooth texture and vibrant flavor. And a personal tip that I now swear by: I used two separate decorating bags to pipe the icing. Honestly, these days, I wouldn’t even attempt making Black and Whites without them; they ensure a clean, professional-looking half-and-half finish every time.
Bringing New York Flavors to Austin, Texas
Since returning home from our New York adventure, I’ve baked these Zabar’s-inspired Black & White Cookies no less than twice, even sending a batch to school with Fuzz to share with her friends. We’ve been trying our best to make them “a thing” here in Austin, a city known more for its barbecue and tacos than its classic New York deli fare. Despite the historical connection of Black & Whites to “Amerikaners” – German cookies that one might assume would find popularity in a region like Central Texas with its rich German heritage – we haven’t had much luck in widespread adoption. It seems some culinary traditions are just deeply rooted in their origins! In fact, I’ve only managed to discover one establishment in all of Austin that sells proper Black & White Cookies, and that’s Wholy Bagel. And trust me on this, not only do they offer these elusive cookies, but they also boast the absolute best bagels in Austin – a true taste of New York right here in Texas.
It’s truly rewarding to share a piece of our New York experiences through these homemade treats. The act of baking these cookies brings back fond memories of the city, of walking through Central Park, and the vibrant energy of Zabar’s, even if I initially forgot the cookies there. It’s a way to keep those moments alive and to introduce others to a beloved flavor that transcends geographical boundaries.
A New Generation’s Zabar’s Experience
Time truly flies. This blog post, initially penned years ago, feels like a distant memory now that Fuzz is all grown up. She recently embarked on her own inaugural solo journey to Zabar’s, a moment I had long anticipated. As expected, she absolutely fell in love with the place, just as I had. The sensory overload, the incredible selection, the undeniable New York charm – it all captivated her. And, wonderfully, she remembered what I hadn’t on my first visit. Fuzz thoughtfully brought me home a fresh batch of their famous Black & White Cookies, and I must say, they were even more delightful than I remembered. That soft cake base and perfectly contrasting frosting truly are a New York marvel. It was a heartwarming moment, a passing of the torch, seeing her connect with a place that holds such special memories for me, and bringing a tangible piece of that experience back home.
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Recipe
Black and White Cookies Inspired by Zabar’s
Anna
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Ingredients
For the Cookies
- 8 oz unsalted butter, softened (228 grams)
- 1 ¾ cups granulated sugar (350 grams)
- 4 large eggs at room temperature
- 1 cup whole milk
- ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
- ¼ teaspoon lemon extract or vanilla butter & nut extract
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- ½ to 1 teaspoon kosher salt (if using salted butter, use only ¼ teaspoon**)
- 2 ½ cups cake flour (280 grams – measure carefully)
- 2 ½ cups all-purpose flour (315 grams)
For the White Icing
- 1 ¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar (228 grams)
- 1 ½ tablespoons heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons whole milk plus more as needed
- 1 teaspoon corn syrup
- 1 teaspoon of good quality vanilla extract
For the Chocolate Icing
- 1 ¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar (228 grams)
- 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
- 2 ½ tablespoons heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons of milk plus more as needed
- 1 teaspoon of corn syrup
Instructions
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Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Prepare two large baking sheets by lining them with parchment paper. It’s important not to grease the pans directly with spray or butter, as this can make them too slippery and cause the cookies to spread excessively during baking, affecting their characteristic shape.
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In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the softened butter and granulated sugar together until the mixture is light, fluffy, and creamy. This is a crucial step for the cookie’s texture. Add the eggs one at a time, ensuring each is fully incorporated before adding the next. Gradually pour in the whole milk, followed by the vanilla, butter & nut extract (or lemon extract if preferred), kosher salt, and baking powder. Mix thoroughly to ensure the baking powder is evenly distributed throughout the batter. Finally, carefully stir in the cake flour, and then add the all-purpose flour until just combined. The resulting batter should not be dry; it should be thick enough to hold its shape when dropped onto the baking sheet.
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Using a generously heaping tablespoon (or an ice cream scoop for consistent sizing), drop portions of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets. Make sure to space them about 2 inches apart to allow for spreading. Bake for approximately 12 minutes, or until the edges of the cookies begin to turn a light golden brown. The centers should still be soft and pale. Remove the cookies from the oven and carefully transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely before frosting.
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To prepare for icing, place an uncut decorating bag (without a tip) into a tall glass, pulling the sides down to create a cuff. This makes it easier to fill without making a mess. Repeat this step for the second decorating bag you’ll use for the chocolate icing.
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For the white frosting: In a clean bowl, combine the powdered sugar, heavy cream, milk, and corn syrup. Stir vigorously with a spoon or whisk until the mixture is smooth and thick. Then, stir in the vanilla extract. If the frosting is too thick to pipe, add a little more milk, one teaspoon at a time, stirring until it reaches a consistency that is thin enough to flow from a bag but still holds its shape (slightly thicker than school glue). Carefully transfer this white frosting into one of the prepared decorating bags.
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For the chocolate frosting: Repeat the exact same steps as the white frosting, but this time, add the unsweetened cocoa powder along with the powdered sugar before mixing with the liquids. Ensure the cocoa powder is fully incorporated for a smooth, rich chocolate icing. Transfer this chocolate frosting into the second decorating bag.
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Once the cookies are completely cool to the touch, flip them over so that the flat bottom side is facing up. This is the traditional side to frost. Snip a small tip off the white decorating bag and carefully pipe the white icing over one half of each cookie, creating a clean, straight line down the middle. Repeat this process with the chocolate icing on the other half of each cookie, ensuring the two colors meet neatly in the center.
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Allow the frosted Black & White Cookies to sit at room temperature for a few hours, or chill them in the refrigerator, until the icing has fully set and is firm to the touch. This prevents smudging and ensures the beautiful contrasting design remains intact. Once set, they are ready to serve and enjoy!
Notes