Unlock Unprecedented Crispness: Mastering Baking with Baker’s Ammonia (Hartshorn)

In the vast world of baking, where science meets artistry, certain ingredients stand out for their unique properties. One such fascinating leavening agent that has graced traditional kitchens for centuries is baker’s ammonia, also known by its historical name, hartshorn. This remarkable compound, which I’ve had the pleasure of experimenting with extensively this year, is a secret weapon for achieving an unbelievably light and exquisitely crisp texture in a variety of baked goods, particularly those with low moisture content.

Historically, the term “hartshorn” referred to a substance derived from the antlers of red deer. This natural source of ammonium carbonate was painstakingly prepared and utilized by bakers seeking to impart a distinct airy quality to their creations. Fast forward to modern times, and baker’s ammonia is now primarily ammonium carbonate, produced through a chemical process involving ammonium sulfate and calcium carbonate. While its origin has evolved, its unparalleled ability to transform dough into delicate, shatteringly crisp confections remains a cherished attribute among discerning bakers.

The Science of Crispness: How Baker’s Ammonia Works Its Magic

What makes baker’s ammonia so special, and how does it differ from common leavening agents like baking soda or baking powder? The magic lies in its chemical decomposition. When heated, ammonium carbonate (NH₄HCO₃) breaks down into three gases: ammonia (NH₃), water vapor (H₂O), and carbon dioxide (CO₂). This rapid release of multiple gases creates numerous tiny pockets within the dough, leading to a highly porous and incredibly light structure. Crucially, all three byproducts are volatile and evaporate completely during baking, leaving behind no residual flavor or soapy aftertaste that can sometimes be associated with baking soda in certain recipes.

This characteristic makes baker’s ammonia perfectly suited for baked goods that are meant to be thin and crisp, such as crackers, very thin cookies, and certain types of pastry shells. Unlike baking soda or powder, which require an acidic component or moisture to activate, baker’s ammonia primarily relies on heat. However, its effectiveness is highest in recipes with low moisture content. In a very moist environment, like a cake or muffin, the ammonia gas might not fully dissipate, potentially leaving an undesirable odor or taste. This distinction is key to understanding where and when to best employ this traditional ingredient.

A Journey Through Traditional Baking: Recipes Enhanced by Hartshorn

My personal baking journey with baker’s ammonia has been nothing short of delightful, unveiling new dimensions of texture in familiar treats. One of the most successful applications has been in Swedish Dream Cookies, affectionately known as Vanilla Dreams by King Arthur Baking. The result was an exquisitely delicate cookie with an unparalleled crunch that simply melts in your mouth. This ingredient truly lives up to its reputation for transforming ordinary cookies into extraordinary ones.

I also recall an experimental oatmeal cookie recipe that, regrettably, slipped my mind before I could properly document it. The addition of baker’s ammonia undoubtedly contributed to a superior texture, making me eager to rediscover and refine that forgotten creation. Beyond cookies, I attempted lemon wafers, though the outcome was somewhat disappointing. I suspect this was primarily due to operator error – perhaps an incorrect measurement or improper mixing technique – rather than an inherent flaw in the ingredient itself. This experience underscored the importance of precision when working with a potent leavening agent like baker’s ammonia.

After a brief hiatus, during which I explored other baking avenues, I pulled out the baker’s ammonia once more, this time with the ambitious goal of incorporating it into cream puffs. This venture promised to be particularly intriguing, as cream puffs rely heavily on steam for their characteristic rise and airy interior. The prospect of enhancing their texture with an additional leavening agent was too enticing to resist.

Baker’s Ammonia in Cream Puffs: Elevating Choux Pastry

Choux pastry, the foundation for cream puffs and éclairs, is unique in its preparation. It’s a cooked pastry dough that relies predominantly on steam created from its high water content to puff up dramatically in the oven. The result is a hollow shell, perfect for filling. Introducing baker’s ammonia into this classic structure offers an interesting textural enhancement. Below, you can see a photo of cream puff shells made with baker’s ammonia. While it’s not a mandatory ingredient for cream puffs, its inclusion makes the shells perceptibly lighter and crispier.

For those with a discerning palate or a particular sensitivity to food textures, the difference imparted by baker’s ammonia in choux pastry is certainly noticeable. The walls of the puff become thinner and more delicate, offering a satisfying snap rather than a chewier resistance. This subtle improvement can elevate a standard cream puff into something truly exceptional, showcasing the versatility of this traditional leavening agent even in modern applications.

Finding baker’s ammonia might require a slightly more focused search compared to everyday baking staples. You can often find itconveniently on Amazon or through specialty baking suppliers like the King Arthur Catalog. For those residing in Canada, it’s worth checking the baking aisle of larger grocery stores or specialty European markets, where it occasionally appears due to its popularity in traditional Scandinavian and German baking.

Refining the Recipe: Insights and Observations

Baking is an ongoing process of experimentation and refinement. Recently, my daughter and I revisited the cream puff recipe, opting for an “all butter” approach using rich Irish butter, rather than the original butter-shortening combination. While the pastries developed an incredibly good flavor, we observed that they did not puff as much as usual. This experience highlights an important consideration in choux pastry: the role of fat. Shortening, being 100% fat, contributes to a different dough consistency and heat transfer compared to butter, which contains water. The absence of shortening might have subtly affected the steam production or the structural integrity during the initial rise.

I am committed to continuing to experiment and post updates on this recipe, aiming to strike the perfect balance between flavor and optimal puff. In the meantime, for those seeking a highly reliable and consistently excellent choux pastry, my go-to recipe remains a very basic one called Eclairs II. It provides a robust foundation for various applications, from classic éclairs to fruit-filled cream puffs.

Mastering the Choux: Baker’s Ammonia Cream Puff Shells (Also Excellent for Eclairs)

This recipe provides a fantastic starting point for exploring the unique texture baker’s ammonia offers in choux pastry. The process involves creating a “cooked” dough on the stovetop before adding eggs and the special leavening agent. Precision in each step is key to achieving light, airy shells that are perfect for filling with sweet or savory concoctions.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup water
• 2 tablespoons butter (28 grams), salted or unsalted
• 2 tablespoons shortening (24 grams) – For maximum puff and crispness, the butter-shortening combo is recommended. However, for a richer flavor profile, you can substitute with more butter, understanding it might slightly alter the rise.
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour (100 grams)
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon milk (14 grams)
• 3 large eggs (150 grams)
• ½ tsp. Baker’s Ammonia (ammonium carbonate). If you don’t have it, you can simply omit it, but the resulting texture will be less crisp and light.

Instructions:

1. Preheat Oven: Begin by preheating your oven to 400°F (200°C). This high initial temperature is crucial for the rapid steam generation needed for choux pastry to puff correctly.
2. Prepare the Base: In a medium saucepan, combine the water, butter, and shortening. Place over medium heat and bring the mixture just to a rolling boil. Ensure the fats are fully melted and integrated with the water.
3. Cook the Dough: As soon as the mixture reaches a boil, remove the pan from the heat. Add the flour and salt all at once. Immediately and vigorously stir with a sturdy wooden spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Continue stirring constantly over low heat for 1-2 minutes until the mixture thickens, pulls away cleanly from the sides of the pan, and forms a smooth, cohesive ball. A thin film may form on the bottom of the pan, which is a good sign you’ve cooked off enough moisture.
4. Incorporate Milk: Remove the pan from the stove burner completely. Stir in the milk until it’s fully incorporated into the hot dough. This helps to cool the mixture slightly and adds a touch of richness.
5. Add Eggs Gradually: Transfer the dough to a mixing bowl (stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment is ideal, but a hand mixer works too). Add the eggs one at a time, beating very well after each addition. It’s essential to ensure each egg is fully absorbed before adding the next. The dough will initially look curdled or separated, but it will come together with continued beating. The final dough should be smooth, glossy, and thick enough to hold its shape but soft enough to pipe.
6. Add Baker’s Ammonia: Finally, beat in the baker’s ammonia. Mix just until it’s evenly distributed. You might notice a faint ammonia smell during this stage, which is normal and will dissipate completely during baking.
7. Pipe the Dough: Prepare baking sheets by lining them with parchment paper. Using a large spoon or a piping bag fitted with a round tip, drop or pipe mounds of dough onto the lined cookie sheets, spacing them about 3 to 4 inches apart to allow for expansion. For a more uniform shape, a piping bag is recommended.
8. Bake to Perfection: Place the baking sheets in the preheated oven. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. During this time, resist the urge to open the oven door, especially during the first 15 minutes, as this can cause the puffs to collapse. The choux are done when they are deeply golden brown, feel light, and sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. If they are not baked enough, they will collapse as they cool.
9. Cool Completely: Once baked, remove the cream puffs from the oven and transfer them to a wire rack. Let them cool completely before filling. This allows any residual steam to escape, preventing sogginess and maintaining their crisp structure.

Yield: Approximately 8 beautifully crisp and light cream puff shells, ready for your favorite sweet or savory fillings.

Final Thoughts: Embracing the Legacy of Hartshorn

Baker’s ammonia, or hartshorn, is more than just a chemical compound; it’s a bridge to traditional baking techniques and a testament to ingenuity in the kitchen. Its ability to create uniquely crisp and light textures in specific types of baked goods makes it an invaluable addition to any adventurous baker’s pantry. While it may require a bit more attention to its specific application, the results—particularly in cookies and choux pastry—are undeniably rewarding. Embrace this old-world ingredient, experiment with its fascinating properties, and discover a new level of perfection in your baking endeavors.