Authentic Milanese Raisin Bread (Pan Tramvai): A Beloved Italian Classic Rich with Flavor
Prepare to elevate your baking endeavors, because you are about to discover the extraordinary Milanese Raisin Bread, also affectionately known as Pan Tramvai or Pane all’Uva. This isn’t just any raisin bread; it’s a deeply flavorful, incredibly moist, and wonderfully chewy Italian masterpiece, so generously packed with plump, sweet raisins that their weight astonishingly matches the weight of the flour. If you possess a love for raisins, or even if you’re typically indifferent to them, this bread promises to be a revelation that will capture your heart and palate. Its unique texture and profound raisin flavor set it apart from typical sweet breads, making it a truly unforgettable experience.
The journey to mastering this delightful bread began with Carol Field’s seminal cookbook, The Italian Baker. This culinary treasure has quickly become my indispensable guide for exploring the diverse and rich world of Italian breads. Carol Field, a celebrated author who sadly passed away in 2017, possessed an unparalleled passion for Italian baking that shines through every page of her book. She is even credited with introducing ciabatta to America, showcasing her profound influence on our baking landscape. “The Italian Baker” is much more than a collection of recipes; it’s a meticulously researched tome, brimming with historical context, traditional techniques, and invaluable insights, all conveyed in a warm, accessible, and friendly manner that makes even complex recipes feel approachable to home bakers.
Among the many tempting recipes in her book, this raisin bread, uniquely accompanied by a captivating photograph, immediately caught my eye. The image evoked vivid memories of the exquisite raisin bread I used to purchase from a small Italian grocery store near my old apartment in New York City. Just gazing at the picture, I could almost taste its distinctive sweetness and feel its tender crumb. This nostalgic connection compelled me to bake it, despite the requirement for a specific and somewhat less common ingredient: non-diastatic malt powder. As I soon discovered, this particular malt powder is not merely an optional addition but a cornerstone of the bread’s characteristic texture and subtle sweetness. While it is technically possible to make the bread without it, for truly authentic results and that “wow” factor, incorporating non-diastatic malt powder is highly recommended. To borrow a phrase, it would be cooler if you did – a sentiment I now wholeheartedly endorse after experiencing the difference it makes!
Having now successfully baked this magnificent bread twice, I can confidently say that my purchase of non-diastatic malt powder was a brilliant investment. This bread has earned a permanent spot in my baking rotation, ensuring the malt powder will be put to good use again and again. While I’m always keen to experiment with potential substitutes, such as vital wheat gluten for texture or perhaps malted milk powder for a similar flavor profile, for now, the authentic non-diastatic malt powder remains my top recommendation for achieving the best results. You can conveniently source high-quality non-diastatic malt powder from King Arthur Baking Company. Initially, I had listed Amazon as a source, but discovered that the most prominent results often linked to diastatic malt powder, which serves a different purpose. While Amazon does offer non-diastatic options, they are often significantly more expensive, sometimes upwards of $32. Therefore, for both quality and value, King Arthur remains the superior choice for this specialized ingredient.
Essential Notes and Tips for Baking Milanese Raisin Bread
Crafting the perfect Milanese Raisin Bread involves a few considerations that can significantly impact your final loaf. Here are some insights gathered from my baking experiences:
- Dough Consistency: After my initial bake, I encountered discussions online about the dough being particularly sticky. However, when using King Arthur bread flour for both attempts, I found the dough to be perfectly manageable, not sticky at all. This suggests that the type and brand of flour you use can make a considerable difference. Different flours have varying protein content and absorption rates, which directly affect dough hydration and stickiness. For a consistent and ideal texture, I recommend sticking to the specified 250 grams of good quality bread flour. If you do find your dough too sticky, resist the urge to add excessive amounts of extra flour, as this can result in a dense, dry bread. Instead, try working with well-oiled hands or a lightly floured surface.
- The Art of Raisin Water: The water used to soak the raisins is not just for rehydrating the fruit; it’s a crucial flavoring agent that infuses the bread with an even deeper raisin essence. The goal is to achieve the right concentration of this “raisin-flavored water.” Too little soaking water will result in an overly concentrated liquid, while too much will dilute its flavor. I’ve primarily relied on eyeballing the amount, but the target is ⅔ cup of this aromatic liquid for the dough. I aim to provide a more precise measurement for the initial soaking water in a future update, but for now, ensure there’s enough to cover the raisins completely and leave you with the required amount for the recipe.
- Yeast Varieties: My testing so far has been exclusively with Platinum instant yeast, which is a rapid-rise yeast fortified with Vitamin C and enzymes. This type of yeast generally leads to faster and more vigorous rises. I plan to conduct further tests with active dry yeast and will share updated instructions and expected rise times to ensure success for those using a different yeast variety. Be mindful that active dry yeast typically requires activation in warm liquid and longer proofing times.
- Sourcing Quality Raisins: Given the sheer volume of raisins in this recipe (their weight equals the flour!), finding an affordable yet quality source is a smart move. I’ve had great success purchasing them from Aldi, where they offer excellent value. However, for those who are true raisin connoisseurs and appreciate the subtle nuances between different varieties, this recipe presents a fantastic opportunity to showcase them. Imagine using a blend of crimson, muscat, or even Thompson seedless raisins to create a multi-layered flavor profile. While I haven’t yet ventured into “fancy” raisins, I am actively seeking out interesting types to experiment with, as I believe they could truly elevate this bread further.
- Chocolate Chips vs. Raisins: A common query is whether chocolate chips could be substituted for raisins. While delicious in their own right, I strongly advise against this substitution for this particular recipe. The raisins contribute essential moisture to the dough, which is crucial for the bread’s signature soft and chewy texture. Chocolate chips, lacking this moisture, would likely result in a drier bread with a different crumb structure. If you’re craving a chocolate chip bread, you would be much better served by seeking out a recipe specifically designed for it, such as a traditional Babka, which is formulated to accommodate the fat and sugar content of chocolate without compromising texture.
- Loaf Size and Yield: This recipe, as written, yields one substantial loaf of bread, or alternatively, two smaller, stubbier loaves. For my next attempt, I’m considering halving the recipe to produce a single, more modestly sized loaf, which might be more practical for smaller households or for gifting. Adjusting the recipe to your preferred loaf size is straightforward.
Diastatic vs. Non-Diastatic Malt Powder: A Crucial Clarification
Understanding the distinction between diastatic and non-diastatic malt powder is key to successful baking, especially for recipes like this Milanese Raisin Bread. The malt powder I specifically ordered and recommend for this recipe is non-diastatic, contrasting with its diastatic counterpart. The original recipe in Carol Field’s book calls for “malt syrup or malt powder,” and malt syrup is generally closer in function to non-diastatic malt powder.
Non-diastatic malt powder is primarily used for its flavor-enhancing qualities and its ability to promote a beautiful, rich brown crust. It contains inactive enzymes, meaning it won’t actively convert starches into sugars in the dough. Instead, it adds a subtle, pleasant sweetness and a distinct malty flavor, often seen in bagel making where a chewy texture and golden-brown exterior are desired. It contributes to the bread’s overall aroma and color without drastically altering the fermentation process.
In contrast, diastatic malt powder contains active enzymes (amylase) that break down the starches in flour into simpler sugars, which then become readily available as food for the yeast. This enzymatic activity boosts yeast performance, leading to a more vigorous rise and a lighter, airier texture. While diastatic malt can also contribute to browning, its primary role is to aid in fermentation and improve the crumb structure. For this particular Milanese Raisin Bread, the emphasis is on developing a specific texture and flavor profile through the richness of the raisins and the subtle sweetness of the non-diastatic malt, rather than an extreme boost in rise. While I believe either type could technically “work,” my successful experiments so far have exclusively utilized non-diastatic malt, aligning with the traditional use of malt syrup.
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Milanese Raisin Bread Recipe
Milanese Raisin Bread
Anna
Pin Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 ½ cups raisins, mix of Dark and Golden (250 grams)
- Water for covering raiains
- 2 cups bread flour or however much to make 250 grams** (250 grams)
- ¾ teaspoon salt
- ½ tablespoon sugar (6 grams)
- ¾ teaspoon non-diastatic malt powder
- 2 teaspoons of Platinum or Rapid Rise instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, soft or room temperature
- 1 ½ tablespoons extra flour for the raisins
Instructions
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Put the raisins in a large bowl and cover with water. Carole Field recommends covering dark raisins with cool water and golden raisins with warm. Let raisins soak for 1 ½ hours, then drain and reserve raisin flavored water. When you cover the raisins, keep in mind you’ll need ⅔ cup of the raisin water.
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After the raisins have soaked, drain and reserve ⅔ cup of the raisin water. Heat the water to around 120 degrees. It can be slightly higher (up to 125) if you are using Platinum or Rapid Rise yeast. Lower for active dry.
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Mix only 1 ½ cups of the flour (about 200 grams), salt, malt powder, sugar and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the warm raisin water and stir. I recommend doing this by hand with your favorite mixing tool such as a heavy duty scraper. This will give you a feel for the dough. At this point it should be light and sticky.
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Put the dough on the mixer stand and let the dough hook knead. It should still be clinging to the sides of the bowl at this point. Start adding the remaining flour a couple of tablespoons at a time, kneading and stopping to scrape side of the bowl. You should end up using all 250 grams of the flour. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic and no longer clings to the side of the bowl.
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Transfer it to a well-oiled bowl and turn to cover. Cover and let rise until it’s almost double in bulk – about 1 hour. If you are using active dry, it will take longer.
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After dough has risen, turn it onto a lightly floured surface. Without punching the dough down too hard or kneading it, pat it gently with your palms into a very imperfect (almost oval) rectangle somewhere around 8 inches wide. Pat the raisins dry and toss with the reserved flour.
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You will add the raisins to the dough in 3 additions. Put ⅓ of the raisins on top of the dough. Fold the dough up and over the raisins and pinch it to seal them in. Pat dough down again and repeat with half the remaining raisins, bring dough up and around and sealing. Cover the dough with a greased piece of plastic wrap and let it rest for about 5 minutes before you add the last round of raisins.
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Now you will add the rest of the raisins and shape the loaf. Press the dough down flat into a slightly rectangular shape. Scatter on the last of the raisins. Starting on the long sides, roll the dough up into a cylinder and seal the edges by pinching. Try to lock in all the raisins, but if some fall out that is okay. Try to make your loaf as even as possible.
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Place loaf on a parchment lined baking sheet. Cover with greased plastic wrap and let rise for about 45 minutes. It should be puffed not quite doubled. Gently roll sheet back and forth to help shape loaf during baking (I actually did this gently with my hands).
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While the bread is rising, go ahead and preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
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Bake for 5 minutes at 450, then reduce heat to 400 and bake 30-40 minutes longer (check at 30 if you are baking smaller loaves). Let cool completely on a rack.
Notes
- If using active dry yeast, heat the water to only 115 degrees and add the yeast to the water to dissolve it. Rise times will be about 1 ½ to 2 hours for the first rise and 1 hour for the second.
A Word of Caution: Storing Your Non-Diastatic Malt Powder
As a final piece of advice from personal experience, proper storage of your non-diastatic malt powder is crucial. Neglecting to seal the bag correctly can lead to an unfortunate, rock-solid outcome! I learned this the hard way: my precious malt powder transformed into an unyielding lump that was impossible to break apart, rendering it unusable. This specialized ingredient is highly susceptible to moisture, so it’s imperative to transfer it to an airtight container immediately after opening. Don’t make the same mistake I did; ensure your malt powder remains fresh and granular, ready for your next batch of delicious Milanese Raisin Bread.
Embrace the challenge of baking this exceptional Italian classic, and you’ll be rewarded with a bread that’s not only rich in flavor and texture but also steeped in tradition. Whether enjoyed for breakfast, as a snack, or alongside your favorite Italian dishes, Milanese Raisin Bread is a truly special treat that brings a piece of Italian baking heritage right into your home kitchen. Happy baking!