Shirley Corriher’s ‘In Between’ Chocolate Chip Cookies: The Ultimate Recipe for Crispy Edges and Soft Centers from Cookwise
As the holiday season approaches, with the initial flurry of make-ahead Thanksgiving dishes meticulously completed and safely stored, a particular kind of culinary calm often descends upon the kitchen. This period, affectionately dubbed “Thanksgiving purgatory,” is that unique interim when the major preparations are done, but the grand feast itself is still a few blissful days away. For me, it’s a perfect opportunity to explore new recipes that promise both comfort and a touch of baking enlightenment. This year, my culinary compass pointed me towards a remarkable chocolate chip cookie recipe: Shirley Corriher’s “In Between Chocolate Chip Cookies,” famously featured in her groundbreaking book, Cookwise. As a renowned food scientist and revered cook, Corriher’s approach to baking is always rooted in a deep understanding of ingredients and their interactions, promising not just a recipe, but a lesson in the art of the perfect cookie.
Unpacking the Genius of Shirley Corriher’s Signature Chocolate Chip Cookies
Shirley Corriher’s “In Between” cookies are a masterful demonstration of her culinary philosophy, meticulously crafted to strike a perfect balance. She christened them “In Between” because they deftly navigate the common cookie conundrum: they are neither excessively thick and cakey nor overly thin and brittle. My experience baking them confirmed this delicate equilibrium; while my batch turned out a tad on the thinner side, their deliciousness was undeniable, characterized by an exquisite combination of crispy, golden-brown edges and luxuriously soft, tender centers. This harmonious texture is precisely what discerning cookie enthusiasts crave, setting them distinctly apart from other recipes that often lean too heavily towards one extreme, sacrificing the delightful chewiness that makes a chocolate chip cookie truly exceptional.
A common pitfall in cookie recipes that call for baking powder and cake flour is the tendency for the final product to exhibit a lighter color and a somewhat cake-like crumb, rather than the rich, dense chewiness and deeper browning typically associated with traditional chocolate chip cookies. However, Corriher’s scientific acumen shines brightly here. Her “In Between” recipe ingeniously avoids any trace of cakiness. Instead, these cookies possess a unique, delicate chew that is immensely satisfying. This triumph is largely due to Corriher’s precise selection and careful calibration of ingredients. She understands the nuanced roles of each component: how cake flour, with its lower protein content, contributes to tenderness; how baking powder provides lift without excessive puffiness; and how a blend of fats and specific sugars influences spread, moisture retention, and browning. This thoughtful orchestration results in a cookie that defies common expectations for its ingredient profile.
In her foundational book, Cookwise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking, Shirley Corriher expands beyond this stellar “In Between” version by presenting three additional variations of her chocolate chip cookie recipe: a basic cookie, a puffy cookie, and a thin cookie. Each of these recipes is meticulously engineered to highlight different textural characteristics, offering bakers a comprehensive understanding of how ingredient manipulation can lead to distinct outcomes. The “In Between” truly stands as the balanced ideal, encapsulating the best qualities of its counterparts. This adaptability and precision underscore her profound grasp of baking chemistry, transforming simple recipes into profound learning experiences for anyone aspiring to deepen their culinary knowledge.
The Enduring Influence of Cookwise: Your Personal Food Scientist in the Kitchen
Beyond its delectable recipes, Cookwise is an unparalleled resource and an absolute essential for anyone genuinely curious about the scientific principles that govern successful baking and cooking. It is far more than just a collection of recipes; it is a profound culinary education bound within a single volume. This book holds a permanent, well-loved spot in my kitchen, always within arm’s reach. Indeed, owning Cookwise is akin to having a personal food scientist right there beside you, ready to illuminate the ‘why’ behind every culinary process, transforming guesswork into informed understanding.
Shirley Corriher’s genius lies in her remarkable ability to distill complex chemical reactions and physical transformations that occur during cooking into clear, practical, and actionable advice for the home cook. She meticulously explains why specific ingredients behave the way they do, how varying temperatures impact texture, and what happens at a molecular level when different components like flour, sugar, fats, and leavening agents are combined. This deep dive into the science of food empowers you to do more than simply follow instructions; it enables you to truly comprehend recipes, troubleshoot unexpected issues, and even creatively adapt them with confidence.
Even with Shirley’s invaluable guidance, I must confess, I still occasionally veer from a recipe’s exact specifications, sometimes with predictable (and sometimes disastrous) results! However, the true beauty of Cookwise is that it provides the intellectual framework to diagnose exactly where I went astray. Revisiting her explanations and having those “Aha! Shirley was right!” moments—such as realizing why adding too much flour made a pastry dry or how that extra 30 seconds of beating truly did alter the crumb—has been an incredibly enriching and transformative learning experience. It is through these iterative processes of baking, observing, and consulting Corriher’s wisdom that I’ve refined my understanding of the delicate balance between the art and science of baking.
Her insights brilliantly clarify many common baking mysteries. For instance, her detailed discussions on the distinct properties of different fats, such as butter versus shortening, and their impact on cookie spread, tenderness, and chewiness, are particularly illuminating. She elucidates how the melting points of fats and their water content fundamentally influence the final product, leading to uniquely different textures. Similarly, her comprehensive guidance on leavening agents—explaining the dual action of baking powder and the acid-reacting properties of baking soda—provides a clear roadmap for achieving desired lift, tenderness, and browning without falling into the trap of a dense or “cakey” cookie. Her meticulous approach makes consistently great results attainable for any home baker.
Since the initial publication of Cookwise and the introduction of these cherished cookies, Shirley Corriher has continued to enrich the culinary landscape with another exceptional volume: Bakewise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with Over 200 Magnificent Recipes. This companion book delves even further into the intricacies of baking, offering a treasure trove of additional recipes and scientific explanations, thereby solidifying her esteemed status as a true pioneer in demystifying the kitchen for millions of enthusiastic home cooks and seasoned professionals alike. Both books are truly indispensable for anyone serious about mastering the foundational principles and excelling in the beautiful art of baking.
For those eager to explore more of Shirley Corriher’s profound culinary wisdom and diverse recipes, these related links from Cookie Madness offer a glimpse into her versatile and impactful approach to baking:
- Yellow Cake Inspired by Shirley Corriher
- Shirley Corriher’s Brownies
- Egg-Free Thin Chocolate Chunk Cookies
- Raspberry Streusel Bars
- Food Processor Pound Cake in a Pullman
Shirley Corriher’s “In Between” Chocolate Chip Cookies Recipe
Embark on your journey to bake these perfectly balanced chocolate chip cookies! This recipe, straight from the wisdom of Shirley Corriher, is a stellar example of how a deep, scientific understanding of ingredients translates into truly superior results. Pay meticulous attention to each detail, especially the specific type of flour and the blend of fats used, as these elements are absolutely crucial for achieving the sought-after “in-between” texture that makes these cookies so uniquely special. Get ready to delight in the process of creating these delicious, scientifically-backed treats!
In Between Chocolate Chip Cookies
Anna
Pin Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 cup pecan halves (128 grams, adds a delightful nutty crunch and depth of flavor)
- 2 tablespoons butter (28 grams, stirred into hot pecans for richness)
- 1 ½ cup cake flour (170 grams, crucial for a tender, less-cakey crumb)
- ¾ teaspoon salt (enhances all other flavors and balances sweetness)
- 1 ½ teaspoon baking powder (provides controlled lift for the “in-between” texture)
- 5 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter (70 grams, at room temperature for optimal creaming)
- 5 tablespoons butter-flavored or neutral shortening (60 grams, contributes to chewiness and helps control spread)
- ¾ cup light brown sugar (150 grams, provides moisture, chewiness, and caramel notes)
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup (or use golden syrup) (36 grams, essential for maintaining softness and preventing sugar crystallization)
- 1 large egg (54 grams, acts as a binder and adds moisture and richness)
- 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract (using pure vanilla offers the best flavor depth, though others work)
- 1 ¼ cups your favorite type of semisweet chips (or dark or bittersweet chocolate chips; choose high-quality for best melt)
Instructions
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Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (175°C). Prepare your baking sheets by lining them with parchment paper for easy cleanup and consistent baking.
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On a large, unlined baking sheet, spread the pecan halves evenly in a single layer. Roast them in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until they become beautifully fragrant and acquire a light, golden-brown toast. It’s wise to begin checking their progress around the 8-minute mark to prevent any burning. As soon as the nuts are removed from the oven and are still hot, transfer them to a medium bowl and stir in the 2 tablespoons of butter until each pecan is well coated. This step infuses them with a wonderful buttery flavor. Allow the buttered pecans to cool completely to room temperature before chopping them roughly; this ensures they don’t make the cookie dough too greasy.
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Once the pecans are cooled and chopped, adjust and increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190°C). This higher initial temperature is critical for achieving the desirable crispy edges and soft centers.
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In a separate medium-sized bowl, sift together the cake flour, salt, and baking powder. Sifting is an important step as it removes any lumps, aerates the flour, and ensures that the leavening agents are thoroughly and evenly distributed throughout the dry ingredients, contributing to a consistent cookie texture. Set this dry mixture aside.
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In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, cream together the 5 tablespoons of butter, shortening, and light brown sugar until the mixture is visibly lightened in color, fluffy, and well combined. This creaming process incorporates essential air into the mixture, which is vital for the cookie’s final texture. Next, beat in the light corn syrup (or golden syrup) until it is fully integrated into the creamy mixture. Add the large egg and continue to beat for precisely 30 seconds; this emulsifies the egg into the fats and sugars, adding structure and tenderness. Finally, stir in the pure vanilla extract for a rich aromatic base. With a sturdy mixing spoon or on the lowest speed of your electric mixer, gradually add the reserved sifted flour mixture, mixing only until it is just thoroughly combined. Be very careful not to overmix, as excessive gluten development can result in tough, less tender cookies. Gently fold in the cooled, chopped pecans and your preferred type of chocolate chips (whether semisweet, dark, or bittersweet, the quality of your chocolate will significantly impact the final taste and melt).
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Line your clean cookie sheets with non-stick foil or parchment paper. Using a rounded tablespoon or a small cookie scoop (approximately 1.5 tablespoons of dough per cookie), drop portions of the cookie batter about 2 inches apart onto the prepared sheets. Adequate spacing is key to allow the cookies to spread properly without merging into one another. Bake the cookies for approximately 12 minutes, or until their edges have turned a beautiful golden brown and the centers are just set but still appear soft and slightly underdone. This slight underbaking is the secret to achieving those desirable soft, chewy centers. Overbaking will lead to drier, less satisfying cookies. Remove the sheets from the oven and allow the cookies to cool on the baking sheet for about 3 minutes, resting on a wire rack. This brief cooling period helps them to set and firm up, making them easier to transfer. Then, carefully move the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Savor every bite of these perfectly balanced “In Between” chocolate chip cookies!
We sincerely hope you’ve been inspired to try baking and savoring Shirley Corriher’s truly remarkable “In Between” Chocolate Chip Cookies. Her scientific yet profoundly approachable methods have had a transformative impact on how countless home bakers and culinary professionals understand and engage with the art of baking. What might initially seem like a series of mundane kitchen steps is, through Corriher’s lens, revealed to be a fascinating journey of discovery and precision. Whether you are a seasoned baker eager to perfect your craft or just embarking on your baking adventures, this recipe offers a perfect blend of engaging challenge and immense reward, culminating in a cookie that genuinely stands out from the crowd. May your kitchen be filled with the sweet aroma of success! Happy baking!